Review: Art is on ‘The Menu’ as biting satire serves up some mean cuisine
By Katie Walsh
An elite, motley crew assembles for a very special dinner in the deliciously dark thriller satire “The
Menu,” a philosophical deconstruction of artists and their enablers. Written by “The Onion” veterans Seth
Reiss and Will Tracy and directed by Mark Mylod, who made his name in prestige television directing episodes
of “Game of Thrones” and “Succession,” “The Menu” is a tightly wound, sharply rendered skewering of the
dichotomy between the takers and the givers, or in this case, the eaters and the cooks.
The recipe for “The Menu” is one filet of bloody class warfare à la “Ready or Not,” a dash of cultish folk
horror in the vein of “Midsommar,” a puree of “Chef’s Table,” dusted with a sprinkling of “Pig,” and
spritzed with an essence of “Clue.” We go along for this ride through the point-of-view of a classic Final
Girl, the spunky, sarcastic and street-smart Margot (Anya Taylor-Joy), a late addition to the guest list who
is an unexpected and unpredictable element in the sauce.
Other Reviews of
The Menu :
Rotten Tomatoes:
It’s a slow-building revelation that will result in a gasp, and then it just builds on the “out
there” abilities of a thriller/horror hybrid. Come for Ralph Fiennes, but stay for the outrageously
bizarre finale.
See more...
The New York Times:
A look at how the creators of the new satirical film, now streaming on HBO Max, took the already
high-pressure world of elite restaurants to a thrilling and terrifying level.
See
more...
The Vulture:
Ralph Fiennes is a celebrity chef from hell in a film that feels like an unhinged sibling to The Bear.
See more...
Rolling Stone:
Part scalpel-sharp satire and part eat-the-rich horror flick, this fine-dining thriller relies on a
hot ensemble cast and a dish that's best served cold
See more...
Variety:
Ralph Fiennes and Anya Taylor-Joy in a Restaurant Thriller That Gives Foodie Culture the Slicing and
Dicing It Deserves
See more...
The Review Geek:
A high concept of class with humor served on the side
See more...
The restaurant is Hawthorne, located on a remote coastal island in the Pacific Northwest; the chef is
Julian Slowik (Ralph Fiennes). The guests include a food critic (Janet McTeer) and her editor (Paul
Adelstein), a group of finance guys (Rob Yang, Arturo Castro, and Mark St. Cyr), a diehard fan (Nicholas
Hoult), a movie star (John Leguizamo) and his assistant (Aimee Carrero), and a pair of regulars (Reed
Birney and Judith Light). The group submits themselves to the culinary experience they are about to have
at the hands of Chef Slowik, his cult of sous chefs, and his stern hostess, Elsa (Hong Chau).
At first, it all seems painfully pretentious as the guests are served up dishes such as “The Island” (a
scallop perched atop a rock) and the “Unaccompanied Accompaniments,” which take deconstruction to a
whole new level. Then the menu becomes a walk down memory lane for Chef Slowik, taking a turn toward the
uncomfortably personal, then accusatory, shocking, aggressive, and violent.
The central metaphor is plainly obvious. “The Menu” is not about food, or eating, but about the
consumption of art, as well as the forces the artist finds himself subjected to while attempting to
create. Chef Slowik has sold his soul for success, subjecting himself to the whims of the big money
investors, the critics, the celebrities, his mindless consumers, and worst of all, his fanboys, who
think they know more than the experts, and are willing to meddle too (the fanboys get it worst of all
here). That’s not to say that Chef Slowik is a victim. No, he’s the antagonist here, but Fiennes plays
him as a tortured soul who is attempting to reckon — violently — with his own selling out, and takes no
pleasure in the process.
Scroll horizontally for more pictures:
Cast:
Ralph Fiennes as Chef Slowik (Hover!)
The Grand Budapest Hotel (M. Gustave H.)
No Time to Die (M)
The King's Man (Orlando Oxford)
The Dig (Basil Brown)
Anya Taylor-Joy as Margot
Nicholas Hoult as Tyler
Hong Chau as Elsa
Janet McTeer as Lillian
Paul Adelstein as Ted
Reiss and Tracy have borrowed the increasingly pretentious and over-the-top world of high-end dining
experiences to craft a screenplay that feels like an exorcism of sorts; a cathartic primal scream about the
state of the industry of art, be it film, television, literature, visual art or food. The artist, despite
his or her inclinations or inspirations, is always beholden to the critics, the investors and the fans, and
“The Menu” is both a violent rejection of that paradigm as well as a darkly humorous acceptance of it all.
Mylod has taken this script, a wordy, writerly existential crisis, and presented a slick, somewhat cold,
offering. The acting is flawless, Peter Deming’s cinematography crisp, Colin Stetson’s jaggedy score
appropriately unsettling. If the outré ending jumps the shark, well, it’s been earned — the satisfying
“Menu” has already left us much to chew on.
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